Sunday, 23 January 2011

Public transport across the continents


This might not strike you as the most interesting of topics and you might think shall I continue to read on after this sentence. To web log about transport may on first glimpse read like a big fat complaint. But I assure you this blog is going to be an equal analysis of both complaint and compliment.

I address you, whomever has started reading this and put it to you that this vital part of most people’s lives, this thing that happens to us and what we put upon ourselves and use and re-use frequently, affects everyone. We all use it at some point every day and even if you claim to be an avid pedestrian I am sure that transport has affected you in one way or another every other day. Surely everyone has an opinion on transport? I know people who know people who work in the transport industry so to you, forgive me for attempting to talk about a subject I know relatively nothing about except my own experiences.

I have lived in Sydney for the last eight weeks and getting to know how the transport system works here has often left me feeling like I need to punch someone, or cry. Complaint. Having also lived in London for six years with a break in the middle to the midlands, I feel its time to make some comment.

Sydney’s transport system is defunct; it seems to me to be a decade old. It is slow, expensive and old. It costs almost $4 for single from the CBD (Central Business District aka city centre) to Bondi. It took us weeks to find out what ‘zone’ we are in because no one really uses the zones except the ticketing system but no body can tell you what zone you are in at any time? There are no maps with zone indications or parameters, no one says you need a zone 1-3 ticket nor does anyone make it clear about price guidelines or information on which bus ticket to purchase. It is guesswork and interpretation of which news agency has told you what because you cant buy a bus ticket on the bus for a prepay bus to Bondi, no, you have to find a news agency that sells bus tickets. Not all do mind you most run out of bus tickets or just do not offer the service of selling them.

Elizabeth Street in the CBD is where we have to go to get a bus to Bondi, except for about 300m there is no indication where which bus will stop where? Sometimes they stop at the top of Hyde Park, and sometimes they stop at the bottom if there is a queue of different buses. On many occasion after work I have run to get it from one end of the bus stands to the other and missed it. I was there, at the bus stop. The 300m long bus stop. I have asked bus drivers huffing and puffing having made it on on occasion and one once said that he didn’t know where to stop so he tries to stop in the middle ‘hahaha’ as I approached the door sweating and gasping for air. Not impressed. It does not seem to matter if you arrive early or late, you stand there and it is sheer luck if you get to the bus before they swerve off lifting their arms at you in mock ‘sorry’. The monorail just goes round in circles and is hugely expensive. It looks great though, a futuristic gliding car swerving around corners above your head through the city. Cars can come in and out of the centre of town easily and this creates huge congestion for pedestrians and buses. Not to mention you can’t take a breath for all the pollution in the CBD. The train is better but not direct, so it would mean spending at least $25 a day each. I simply cannot congratulate the transport system here at all. We have hired cars and the e-toll system for getting across Harbour Bridge or under it is ludicrous. All the signage says is go online there are no cash takers as you go through or under, but here’s the catch; you never know when you are being charged. So you go online, to check, and it only points you to where you buy seasonal tickets for habitual crossings, but as a hire car it was for that day or two, so you ring and are on hold and they tell you to go online and pay it but please friends, look at the website, can you find where it tells you to pay for that day? They don’t tell you how many times you went over, it took so long for me to understand; they take your bank account details and then at the end of the day they take away how many times you crossed. But if you don’t give your bank details; you get penalised!

Now I know many of you complain about TFL, on a daily basis, I find myself laughing (now that I am away) at Twitter and Facebook at all the funny comments, to quote but a few

been stuck on a bus for 25 mins, no heating, condensation turning to ice, WTF is wrong with you TFL!!!!!!

stand still traffic....great…

Now TFL in comparison to the Sydney transport system is amazing. Congestion charging, however much expensive and begrudgingly we pay it, does work, does it not? Trains run until a decent time, bus only cost £1 wherever you are going, be it from north to south or east to west. Buses are plentiful and regular all day and most of the night, albeit full at all times.

Not to say England has it right; remember that time there was a heat wave and the train lines started melting or some such ridiculous thing, and remember the salt for roads ran out when it snowed that year? Not to mention the complete gridlock and statistics of accidents when there is bad weather. Lets face it Great Britain has bad weather, and always has had and quite regularly in a year, how come we still get it so wrong when it comes to the odd abstract day for weather?

We travelled through South America on public transport on the road for a few months at the start of our world trip. We took no internal flights and managed to cover Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Chile and Argentina. We were in complete awe at how unbelievably sound the transport system was. We do not speak Spanish but managed it fine. Clear instructions, clear signage, clear ticketing. We went across the countries; through desert and hostile landscape, through mountains and valleys in severe climates and altitudes. This continent knows transport. Brazil and Argentina had to be my all time favourite. Driving for days does not faze these people. Locals and travellers all use it. All the countries had official coach drivers, but the Brazilian’s were like police officers in uniform, stern like the military. Always two of them to take turns in driving the hours and hours it would take to get to the next destination. Counting you on and off the coach every time we stopped, and not just counting heads, but checking names and places, once a couple swapped places with a friend opposite and it created quite a stir with the drivers. I loved it.

No issue of safety, these people had me at ‘passport?’ Our backpacks went into the bottom of the coach or bus and they give you a ticket and once the trip was complete we would collect our baggage, knowing it was there. Unlike in Italy where a boyfriend who will remain nameless picked up someone else’s bag from beneath the coach which led to tears and days of phonecalls and organising. We would board these semi-cama buses in South America and smell the freshness of a newly cleaned bus, not like a cinema clean where they simply pick up the popcorn buckets not the bits of popcorn everywhere, these buses had no crisps or stains crushed into the seats, no waft of odour other cleaning solution.

Bolivia is a poorer country and buses were older yes, but still in tact. Even when there was the odd lamb, goat or smelly woman on board, they still went across fine. We travelled right the way through this massive land and these modes of transports did the job surely and sufficiently, it may have been rocky going across the Chako (desert) but we still made it. The semi-cama reclined and was comfortable enough to sleep in for a day or two. Plenty of space, cushioning on both sides of the seat to move around in, cushioned foot and leg rests that extend the length of the leg in most circumstances. We would stop at the roadside in towns and villages and women with baskets on their hips or heads would come onto the bus, walk up and down selling fresh hot empanadas, once we even had a full on roast dinner, meat she cut there on the bus with hot roast potatoes served in a bag! You didn’t even have to leave your seat. We looked back and everyone on board were licking their fingers with meat and potatoes. Delicious!

For only a few pounds more, we travelled on a first class superior cama bus through Argentina as a treat. We could lie down flat, we had a hot 3 course meal, with snacks, we had champagne, wine and beer. We read and watched our own television, in a language choice of our own. We curled up with a blanket. Simply wonderful. The gentle rocking motion of the coach would send me off into a sound sleep, it was luxury.

South American transport I salute you. You do not get fazed by extreme weather, you are (mostly) reliable, clean and safe. You go such lengths and seem to never tire. You are nearest perfection I have experienced. Thank you!

Saturday, 18 December 2010

84 Charing Cross Road

Theatrical poster
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/84_Charing_Cross_Road_(film)
I think I just watched the best film, ever. 84 Charing Cross Road. It is a movie about books, friendship, London and New York and I think I fell in love with it. I was feeling a little low and blue. I was tucked up in bed, feeling the chill (although not as cold as home, which is stuck in the big freeze, sorry!). I am suffering from an attack of nostalgia and homesickness and after watching, "The Young Victoria" which was a nice enough film, Netflix suggested I might like, 84 Charing Cross Road. And I did. It stars Anthony Hopkins and Anne Bancroft, it is a love story, but a love story over correspondence, letters and books and over the Atlantic ocean.

I loved this film for the love and joy found in books, letters, lives and not least of all for the scenes of London and New York (cities I love) and brilliant lines; like:


"What would we do without our cups of tea. Life would be insupportable, would it not?" 

"I love inscriptions on flyleafs and notes in margins. I like the comradely sense of turning pages someone else turned and reading passages someone long-gone has called my attention to."

Understated and witty, lovely and warm, nothing overdone and everything said; just right. It is the sort of movie I aspire to be, witty and warm but just enough. Bitter but sweet, like the best dark chocolate. It reminds me of my other favourite films, Remains of the Day and Sense and Sensibility. These are of course the English stereotypes, of formality and reserve, but it is something I admire and respect. Maybe ever more as we over share and provide TMI (Too Much Information) all over the place. I am guilty as charged of both crimes. But aspirations are needed, and maybe one day I will be just as witty, warm and understated as this movie.

Even better; I see it is based on a book and it is based on the author, Ms Helene Hanff's real 20 year correspondence with Mr Frank Doel of Marks & Co. What I cannot understand is how I have never seen this film before?

Wednesday, 15 December 2010

Seven more books – the last seven of the year?

Had never heard of this author before. A nice read contemplating a man's approach to older age, decisions he makes and the changes in his life.  This is the kind of book you pick up at a book sale, enjoy and forget easily. 

This is a funny take on the diary of a wimpy kid books.  Enjoyable silly read. 

This was a re-read. Love this book, funny story with Sam Vimes et al.  

Eight short stories all centred around the same stories, intertwined but not linked explicitly.  Not cheerful, but intense and interesting, these stories see different aspects of the same world through the eyes of different people from different parts of society.

Another re-read, this is Sue Townsend, a staunch left winger, expressing her concerns and poking fun at 'new labour' and the machine that surrounded the last government. 

Captivating story about an immigrant couple adjusting to Canada and more importantly to one another.  This book is not your typical clichéd fodder from the Indian sub continent - it is instead a well written, interesting and unusual story.   

This was a strange book about the end of Thatcherism and the intertwined lives of a group of South London middle classes. The characters are quite shallow but it is interesting and keeps you captivated.  Being a south Londoner its always good to read about books that reference your area!



Friday, 10 December 2010

Where in those from Old England experience New England

We recently returned from our Thanksgiving trip to Boston. We had a wonderful visit, the Thanksgiving feast was prepared primarily by our wonderful hostess and it was amazing! I think there was only one American at the table, but the turkey, cranberry, sweet potatoes; pie etc would have made any American proud! Thanksgiving in the US celebrates the Pilgrims at Plymouth Colony giving thanks for surviving their first brutal winter in New England. But as ever with traditions and legends, history is often a lot more complex and controversial. If you care to; you can scroll down to the section headed, “Controversy” in the above wiki leak. Also an interesting BBC podcast about the issue can be found here. We did listen to this podcast on our trip to Plymouth, Massachusetts 

The trip to Plymouth was interesting for all of us, including our 6 year old companion (nephew of our friends) who had just been learning all about the pilgrims and Thanksgiving at school. The weather was beautiful, it was a little chilly but the blue skies and the sunshine did little to remind us of the brutal winter the first pilgrims would have given thanks for back in the 17th century. It is always an interesting reminder that these first pilgrims came out of Oliver Cromwell’s religious separatists and puritans. The Native Americans story is now no longer relegated to the footnotes of history as it once may have been. The pilgrims would have encountered the Wampanoag tribe when they disembarked from the Mayflower, although their encounter did little to remind them that this New England was not an unpopulated land. We did do the tourist thing in Plymouth and visit the Plimoth Plantation. An open air museum, which is slightly expensive and a bit contrived but an interesting experience nonetheless.The Mayflower II was the second old boat we saw in Boston. The first was the USS Constitution, we were shown around by a US Navy Sailor. The USS Constitution the world's oldest floating commissioned naval vessel. The HMS Victory is the oldest naval ship still in commission, but she sits in dry dock in Portsmouth, UK.
Our friends are active and interesting tour guides, even more impressive as they have only just moved to Boston. There is no need for an official guide when you have well informed friends; as we walked parts of the Freedom Trail. We climbed the 296 steps of The Bunker Hill Monument , we were rewarded by the pretty views of Boston from the top. The Bunker Hill Monument (A National Park) marks the first major battle of the American Revolution, this is the site of one of the most famous battle orders; "Don't fire until you see the whites of their eyes!" Another famous quote from the American Revolution is the cry, “The British are coming.” This warning was provided by Paul Revere and we stopped by his house near Little Italy.

Whilst in Little Italy or North End we enjoyed a delicious warming Italian feast and splurged on cannelloni’s from Mikes Pastry Shop. And the food did not stop there, I think I had the best hot chocolate ever as we walked around Cambridge. The nicest surprise was that we discovered that Boston is not home to one but two Wagagmamas. Of course we indulged and it was superb! The other reminders of home were the terraced red brick houses, Quincy Market similar to Covent Garden, Boston Common and Boston Public Garden similar to the parks in London, and the shopping; Hotel Chocolat, H&M, Zara and French Connection UK. On a side note I decided to boycott FCUK due to their sexist window display which read, “The Man endures the holiday season and the Woman prepares for the holidays.”
We also made it to the venerable academic institutions that are MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) where we saw the Frank Gehry building and Harvard. Finally but not least we also went to the JFK Presidential library. Living in Dallas for the last (gasp) nearly 4 years, we have visited the Sixth Floor Museum  a few times. So it was really nice to spend so much time at JFK’s library, which is a must see; if you are ever in Boston. (As a side note I am still trying to locate President Bartlett's library?)
We also returned to the Library to listen to a very interesting lecture on, “Voting Rights in the Kennedy Years.”  It was a fascinating and moving talk by Judge Gordon A. Martin  who discussed his new book Count Them One by One:  Black Mississippians Fighting for the Right to Vote, about the 1962 court case that resulted in one of the first victories for voting rights in the South.  Judge Martin was joined by John Doar, who worked for the Justice Department under Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy and successfully tried the case.  

And so ended our wonderful tour of Boston, New England a historic, beautiful and fun place; our friends provided the warmest welcome and whilst we are sad that they are no longer around the corner from us here in Dallas we are very thankful that they were able to host us in their new home, Boston.

Saturday, 13 November 2010

why cheese is great - or 'just one cheese'

Jigna's post about supper clubs has inspired me to do another 'why *** is great' post.  CHEESE is brilliant.  NO really stop and imagine a life without cheese.  There are so many different kinds of cheese, unique and different and yummy, can be eaten by themselves, with bread, biscuits, crackers, as part of a main meal, starter or dessert, paired with fruit nuts chocolate and booze. its brilliant.

Now ask yourself this question:

If you could only eat one kind of cheese for the rest of your life, which cheese would you pick and why?

I ask this as it is something I have often discussed with many of my friends, and everyone has a different answer....

some say Mature Cheddar - cos its so versatile, melt it, sandwiches, etc

someone said Hallumi / Helim - because its salty goodness is unrivalled

another person said Stilton - just cos its a fave

someone I know said they couldn't live without feta

I think I'd go with Camembert - gooey ripe and perfect.  But it would be an incredibly difficult decision really cos I LOVE all cheese.

I have been surprised by some people saying they'd pick Parmesan (parmigiana), smoked cheese, Boursin, Edam, Gorgonzola, mozzarella - but there is of course so much choice and people all have different favourites!  

It is getting wintery and cold here in London and perfect cheese and biscuits weather  - my favourite right now is some Stilton, Brie and Port Salut with a yummy glass of red wine or port. Delicious, I am so glad I don't have to pick just one cheese!   This year I am going to get cheese from neal's yard  at  Christmas - I am really looking forward to it!!

Books 2010 - Five books in Two weeks

in the last fortnight i have read five books - that's what being at home and not able to do much does to you!

Amitav Ghosh - The Hungry Tide
A book I kept hoping would get better as I read on - alas it did not. A shame really as I have enjoyed other books by this author.

Christopher Brookmyre - A Tale Etched in Blood and Hard Black Pencil
Funny in a dark kind of way - I have never read any Brookmyre, I probably will look out his books again in the future but it wasn't a 'wow' book, just an intriguing, funny book that kept you guessing till the end.

Kate Morten - The Forgotten Garden
This was a book Jigna mentioned that she had read at a book club and I might like - she described it as ' a bit like A Suitable Boy so of course I had to give it a go.  It is like A suitable boy, but only in the sense it is written form the points of view of 3 women from different generations of the same family.  I liked it, it was a real page turner, but I am not sure I'd read it again.

Sarah Waters - The Night Watch
I have heard people mention this book before, so was pleased a friend brought it round and lent it to me. It was good - bleak and sad and heartbreaking, brilliantly written. Gives the reader a feeling for how so many different women were effected by the second world war.

Neil Gaiman - The Graveyard
This was a gift from a friend who went into a shop and said 'what books can you recommend for someone who likes Terry Pratchett' - how lovely!  Its a childrens book and its fantastic - this video shows some of the lovely illustrations in the book and gives an outline of it the story.

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Supper clubs

Picture credit: 
Traditionally Supper Clubs have different meanings according to where and when in the world you are, at least according to Wikipedia . We went to a “Supper Club” last month, hosted by the fabulous: Light Bulb Oven. The modern take on a “Supper Club” where a professional chef cooks and entertains guests at a private residence or space, there is a “donation” but it is not a restaurant and it is not permanent, the menu, location and times vary, chefs get to experiment and show off their skills without having to make a long term investment in a restaurant and the guests get to chow down on a yummy feast hopefully amidst great company too. The concept has become hugely popular in major cities, across the US. When I mentioned to Dhara that we were planning on attending a Supper Club, she was excited, apparently it is becoming popular in London too, and so a promise was made that we would try to go to one next time we are home. It is a strange concept, part private dinner party, with people you do not necessarily know, and part restaurant, a strange hybrid. We have to admit we were a little nervous going to spend a precious Saturday evening with strangers. We have experienced pretentious foodies in the past and so we were a little wary. But we had committed so we went along and we are so glad we did. The feast was indeed fabulous and we did indeed luck out on the seating as we ended up sat with the host and her friends, who were lovely and we look forward to seeing much more of them all! The chef was brilliant and she taught us how to present a cheese plate. Your cheese plate is set out like a clock face and you start with the mildest at 6pm and then onwards around clockwise ending with your strongest, which is usually the blue, in between the cheese you have the pair-ings, grapes etc. The chef had paired a blue cheese with dark chocolate which sounds weird, but is really good. Love cheese! Our first Supper Club was a very satisfactory culinary experience.